On our 2 weeks road trip to Gujarat, when we planned to explore the Rann of Kutch region, I also included Dholavira in my plans. For, it was at one end of the Road to Heaven – a scenic higway stretch connecting the village of Dhordo at one end. Which is the entrance point to the Rann Utsav. And Dholavira at the other end. Where lies the ancient Harappan Civilization site of Dholavira. And then, the historical significance of Dholavira in shaping the civilization of modern India. Which I wanted my kids to practically experience. As, Dholavira is not just an archaeological site; it is a window into the past, offering a rare glimpse of the Indus Valley Civilization’s advanced society. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a traveler, or someone interested in ancient engineering marvels, Dholavira is a fascinating place to visit.
Thus, in this post, let me take you with me on this trip to Dholavira. And explore the remains of the great Indus Valley Civilization that flourished in the region, once upon a time.
An introduction to Dholavira
Dholavira is one of the five largest Harappan sites in India, the others being Mohenjo-Daro, Harappa, Kalibangan, and Lothal. It was a major urban center of the Indus Valley Civilization around 4,500 to 5,000 years ago, during the Mature Harappan Phase (around 2,600 BCE to 1,900 BCE). During the Rann of Kutch festival time, Dholavira also has tent city setup. Although a little far from the White Rann, Dholavira has it’s own unique landscape. And staying in a tent city will definitely be an experience in itself. The Indus Valley Civilization is considered one of the oldest and most developed civilizations in world history.
Unique layout and architecture of the site of Harappan Civilization site at Dholavira
The first thing that you notice as you enter the site of Dholavira is the well planned out city structure. Dholavira’s layout is unique among Harappan cities because of its clear distinction between different sections: citadel, middle town, and lower town. This division indicates a well-planned urban structure. For instance, the city had rectangular grid patterns, with wide streets, well-organized blocks, and buildings constructed from locally sourced stone and mud bricks. Along with massive stone gateways at the entrances of the city were a distinguishing feature, which were likely used for ceremonial purposes as well as for practical defense.
The main fortified area where people stayed was built on a raised plateau. Maybe to give a better defense from wild animals and other threats. You can climb on the ruins here. Mostly what remains are the bricks and mortar of what seems like strong walls to the houses and towns. Also, there seems to be an indication of caste or class system in existence at that time. And the whole site is divided into two major parts. One where the rich and royal “upper class” resided. And the other which is further off where it seems the lower strata of the society resided. These included potters and farmers and others.
Somehow, the ruins reminded me of the ghost town of Kuldhara near Jaisalmer. That I visited long back on my trip to Rajasthan.
Sophisticated Water Management Systems
Several important artifacts have been discovered at Dholavira, including beads, pottery, metal objects, and stone tools. These artifacts reflect the advanced craftsmanship of the Harappan people. The most famous discovery at Dholavira is the Harappan inscriptions. These inscriptions are symbols or scripts carved into stones, and they remain a subject of much debate among scholars. The script is yet to be deciphered, and it could provide key insights into the Harappan language and culture. One of the most significant finds at Dholavira is a stone carving of a signboard, which may have served as an ancient form of writing or a symbol for the city or the region.
Like many Harappan Civilization sites, Dholavira is believed to have been abandoned around 1,900 BCE, likely due to changes in climate, including droughts or shifts in the course of rivers, which may have led to a decline in water resources and agricultural productivity. There is still much debate among historians and archaeologists about the reasons for the civilization’s decline, but it is believed that these environmental changes played a major role.
You can reach Dholavira directly from Ahmedabad. However, mostly people choose to visit Dholavira as a part of their Rann of Kutch trip. You can combine a visit to Dholavira along with other siteseeing in Rann of Kutch. Including a drive through the road to heaven, kalo dungar, the Great White Rann Desert and Rann Utsav and other places to visit in Rann of Kutch.
Museum of Dholavira
The Dholavira site has a museum towards the right of the entrance. We visited the museum at last, after exploring the rest of the site. This museum is very informative. It contains artifacts and carved stones from the Harappan civilisation time. And also has a lot of information on display, not just for Dholavira but for the rest of the Indus Valley Civilisation sites. The Museum also has a lot of shows running that tell about the evolution of a sophisticated civilisation in the area, it’s flourishing and it’s final downfall. It’s all very informative, particularly for history buffs and students who are studying or going to study the Indus Valley Civilisation.
Our visit to Harappan Civilization site at Dholavira
When we visited Harappan Civilization site at Dholavira, we first started from our homestay in Hodka, the Rann Bhoomi Homestay. By crossing the Road to Heaven. Along the Road to Heaven, we took several pit stops. And also stepped in the white salt desert that spreads along one side of the Road to Heaven. After exploring here, we reached Dholavira around 12 pm. It took us 1-1.5 hours to explore the sites of Dholavira.
On our way back, we had lunch at a restaurant right before the road to heaven starts. After that, we first visited Kalo Dungar. Then we proceeded to the Rann Utsav and the great White Desert of Rann of Kutch at Dhordo to spend the evening there. You can plan your day accordingly and club multiple sites along with Dholavira to visit.