A tryst with snow on the Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir

 

 

“Snow ke chances hain” (There is chance of snowfall)

Muttered our driver, with a little drama, taking one palm out of his window and feeling the air like a pro weather expert. Although, we tried to keep our hopes in control, I couldn’t help but wish for his words to come true. And did they turn true? Oh, not just with fresh snowfall but even a snow storm at the second phase of Gondola ride in Gulmarg! That also in the month of April, during our week long trip to Kashmir, which is really rare. We were definitely lucky this time.

If you are visiting Kashmir, and that also for the first time, a trip to Gulmarg and a Gondola ride is inevitable. But, it’s not as easy as it appears on the papers. (And in pictures of other travellers, of course). So, let me give you the complete information on how to enjoy your Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir to the best possible extent. If not done right, and equipped with the right set of information, it can be a complete waste of a day. On the other hand, with the right information, it can be one of the most memorable days of your trip to Kashmir.

How to book Gulmarg Gondola Tickets

The best way to book Gulmarg Gondola Tickets is online. However, if you are not able to do so, you can also book the Gulmarg Gondola Tickets from the ticket counters.

Booking Gulmarg Gondola Tickets online

This is the official website to book Gulmarg Gondola Tickets. Booking the tickets online can help you avoid the long queues at the ticket counter. We also booked our tickets for Gulmarg Cable Car online when we went to Gulmarg Gondola Ride on our trip to Kashmir. There are two phases to the Gulmarg Gondola. While, Phase 1 is at lower altitude and Phase 2 at higher altitude.

1. Phase 1 : Gulmarg – Kungdoor (2 way ticket cost INR 740.
2. Phase 2 : Kungdoor – Apharwat (2 way ticket cost INR 950)

In fact, when we went to the Gondola station, I spotted a notice there encouraging tourists to book their tickets online. Also, there is a daily quota for tickets. So, if you have booked your tickets online, your ride is confirmed.

Booking Gulmarg Gondola Tickets from the Gondola Ticket Counter in Gulmarg

In case you can not book your ticket online, you can get it from the ticket counter as well. It is best to get a guide with you. Who will help you to procure the tickets. And may as well stand for you in the queue. But, do note that during peak tourist season, if the tickets get sold out, you might not be able to procure the tickets to the Gulmarg Cable Car. So, its always safer to book the tickets in advance.

Do I need to book the tickets to both the phases of Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir

Most of us head to the Gulmarg Cable car to reach the upper mountains. Where we can play in the snow. If you are visiting in the winter months of November – March, there are high chances you will get snow in the cities. As well as lots of snow cover on the Gulmarg Gondola phase 1 itself. So, you really don’t need to go to phase 2. Also, phase 2 often might as well be closed during this time of the year. Pertaining to bad weather, frequent snow falls and low visibility.

But, when visiting in the summer months, starting April, it is worth taking the tickets for Gulmarg Gondola Phase 2 as well. Because the snow cover at Phase 1 reduce drastically. And there is not enough snow in Phase 1 to do snow activities like sledging, skiing or snow biking etc. So, on our own trip to Kashmir, we booked both the tickets. And we went upto Phase 2 of the Gulmarg Cable Car ride. Also, we booked our tickets online. And we were really glad we did so. Because as we reached Kashmir, we heard stories of tourists returning back disappointed after standing in queues for long for the tickets. Sometimes the tickets got over, sometimes they couldn’t withstand the queue anymore.

Timing of the rides at Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir

In winter months of November to March the Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car ride operates from 10:30am in the morning.

But in the summer months starting April, the Gondola Cable Car ride starts from 8:30am in the morning from the Gulmarg Gondola station.

However, you can always check the latest timing from the website when you book your tickets online.

Please note that it is very important to reach the Gulmarg Gondola Station at least an hour before the opening time. As the queues already start forming for the ride. When we arrived there around 8:30am in the morning, there was already a long queue. And we were in the queue for almost 2 hours before we sat in the first cable car. Once we reached the first phase, we immediately proceeded to the next queue for the second phase of Gulmarg Gondola Ride. And again, we were in queue for another 30-40 minutes. Finally, by the time we reached the top and got out in the snow, it was 11:30 am!!!

Do note that there is an equally long queue while returning back as well. So, plan to complete your snow activities in the next 2 hours of your arrival there. And thereafter, you can take the cable car ride back to the Gulmarg Gondola Station when the queue is lean.

How to reach Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car Station

You can hire a taxi to the Gulmarg Gondola Taxi Stand. Or, even your regular tour vehicle can take you to the taxi stand. From the taxi stand, it is a walking distance to the Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car Station. In fact, Gulmarg is a very small resort town. (Reminds me of Grindelwald in Switzerland !!). Our driver told us that no locals live in Gulmarg. It is all about tourism. And there are only resorts and hotels, and people working there. Thats all. Also, everyone who reaches the Gulmarg Taxi Stand heads for the gondola ride. So, there is no confusion there 🙂

Tourist Scams near Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car

Although, things are not as seamless as they appear on the papers 🙂 There are a lot of tourist scams in play at the Gulmarg Gondola Cable Station. And throughout the ride to the Gondola Phases. Some of these being :

1. As soon as you get down at the Gulmarg Taxi stand, chances are high that people with pony and horses will surround you. And offer you a ride to the Gondola Cable station. That also, for a hefty price. Do remember that you can easily walk till there. And there is not really a need for the ride. Also, in winter months, sledge owners will approach you, offering to give you a ride. But again, you can very much walk, even if snow is there.
2. You will be persistently told to take a guide. They help you with procuring the tickets. And also bargaining the best rate for snow sports once you go up the cable car. They also help you get ahead in the queue with a little bribe. All the favours that they do comes at extra cost or with hidden commissions. But the situation is such that you can’t avoid taking a guide. Read on to know more.

Do I need to hire a guide at Gulmarg Gondola

Ideally no. But practically yes 🙂 Although there is a systematic online ticketing system, a neat queue at the Gondola Station and cable cars that operate systematically. So, ideally you should not need to hire a guide. But practically things don’t work this way. And we found it out the hard way after experiencing the Gulmarg Gondola. Luckily we had hired a guide. Who helped us getting into the queue, arranging snacks for kids. And even acted as our only source of communication when all network failed 🙂 . More on it when you read further under the section “Our experience taking the Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir” below. In short, things are not as systematic as they appear on the papers. So, having a guide is definitely going to help you at Gulmarg Gondola.

Best season to take a ride up the Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir

If you ask me, it really depends on what you are seeking. If playing in the snow is your main preference then the winter months are best for you. Because it will be little less crowded. And there will be ample snow at the Phase 1 of Gulmarg Gondola. So, you need not pay extra to go to Phase 2. Also, all the other hassles associated with negotiating the Gulmarg Gondola will be cut short. But, if you don’t prefer the cold and want to visit in warmer months, then April onwards is the best time for you. However, you must go to Phase 2 for ample snow during this time. Unless you are good with taking a pony ride at Phase 1, which will take you to snowy slopes. We did see some people doing that. And realised that is also a good option.

How was our experience taking the Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir

Our first experience with a cable car ride to the top of mountains was on our trip to Switzerland. Wherein we took a day trip to Mount Titlis from Lucerne. It was very systematic. The bus ride to Mount Titlis took an hour. And then we purchased our snacks from the base station. And smoothly boarded the cable car to the top.Then almost the whole day we played in the snow there. To be honest, we pictured the Gulmarg Gondola in Kashmir to be similar. But, unfortunately, it was not. Although the Gulmarg Gondola is Asia’s highest and largest and world’s second highest cable car project. Thinking of which definitely makes we Indians proud. But I wish it was operated in an equally systematic manner.

The Gondola starts operation at 8:30 am in April. And we reached the Gondola station at sharp 8:30am. Only to find a huge queue starting right from the gates. Actually there was no distinction to the ticket queue and the Gondola queue. Everyone was in one single queue. And the guides were trying to sneak their people in the middle of the queue, leading to the frustration of those behind. Finally, after standing for 2 hrs in the queue we got to ride the cable car to phase 1. Upon coming out of the station, we didn’t notice much snow cover around. So, immediately went to the queue for phase 2. Here again, there was a chaos in the queue. Finally after waiting for another 40 minutes, we got to ride the second cable car.

The chaos at the second phase of Gulmarg Gondola

At the second phase of Gondola, it was quiet cold outside. Some of the people in our group including my husband headed for snow sports. While myself and another friend decided to wait for them near the gondola station along with the kids. But as we waited there, we realised there is no shade here except inside the station itself, which is a very small space. And there is no washroom facility. Also, not much food facility except for tea and instant noodles. So, it is really difficult to stay here with kids for long. While we waited here, a heavy snow fall started. So, we decided to go down to the first phase and wait there instead. There was hardly any queue for going down.

But as we stood in the queue, to our horror we saw the cable cars come to a halt. And this is when utter chaos started. Initially we couldn’t learn the reason. After sometime we heard people say there was some maintenance work going on. So the cable wont operate for another hour or so! With no other choice, we managed to grab couple of seats on the waiting chairs. And huddled there with our kids close to us. As the temperature outside fell to -5 degrees!! As we sat there, we saw people pouring in to take the cable car, not knowing that the operations were halted. Soon there was no queue. Rather there was herd of people pushing against each other. I saw people panicking, kids crying due to cold and chaos and moms looking horrified. There was no clear information on when the cars will start operating again. Neither proper facility to manage the mass of people gathered there. It could easily turn into a stampede.

The ride back to Gulmarg

We were really glad that our guide was with us. He kept informing us on our friends. And also arranged snack and water for kids. Finally, when the cable car started operating again, there was complete chaos and people pushing against each other to get in. That is when our guide and few other guides helped us get into the cars safely with our kids. At this point, I swore never to take the Gulmarg gondola again or never to recommend it to anyone. Finally we reached the first phase of Gondola. Initially we had thought to wait here for the others. But after the chaotic experience above, we decided otherwise. And headed straight to the gondola station down. We reached Gulmarg by 3:00pm. The whole day kids had hardly eaten anything or drank any water. After getting down, we waited outside the station for the rest of our group to return. While doing so, we bought some ice cream and water for the kids.

Experience of my husband and others who went for the snow sports

While we had the horrendous waiting & cable car ride experience, my husband and few others in our group had opted for snow activities. After much negotiation which lasted over half an hour, they agreed at a price of INR 8000/- for skiing and sledging for the 3 of them. While they were enjoying the snow activity, a snow storm came at the upper reaches. It was a different level of experience being out there in the snow storm. Although they enjoyed the activities, not being able to connect to their families made them anxious. And then when they returned after the activities, there was a huge queue to get back to Gulmarg. Actually, they spent more than 2 hours in the queue to again reach back to Gulmarg. So overall, they spent 4+ hours in the queue for the 2 hours of enjoyment.

After dropping us back at the gondola station, our guide again took a ride up the cable car to meet the rest of our group. He helped them tactically navigate the queue. Also, informed them that we had safely reached down and were waiting for them. Finally he came down with all of them. I am not sure how much guides help with the bargaining deals for snow sports or help with the gondola tickets. But in the one of a kind situation that we got caught in, our guide proved super helpful to us, sticking by our side all the time. So, I will highly recommend you to hire a guide on your Gulmarg Gondola trip.

What could I have done to make my Gulmarg Gondola experience better

After reading the above account, you might be already wondering whether its even worth to take the Gulmarg Gondola ride. So, let me tell you. Things didn’t turn out well for us because we had envisioned things in a certain way and they turned out in a different way. But, there are certain things that I could have done differently to make the day more enjoyable. And I am going to suggest the same to you :

Stick to Phase 1 of Gondola when with kids

We realised that if we had stayed at Phase 1 of Gondola, it would have been a better experience for the kids. Although there was not much snow but the cold was also less severe. And there is washroom facility. Also, many snack shops and food shops are there where you will get basic food. The kids can play around here to their heart’s content. And we parents can also have a peace of mind.

Equip yourself with extra blankets and coats

Although we hired snow boots and some of us also rented coats from the base for the Gondola ride. Still that didn’t prove very useful. Carrying your own stuff is best. Because we found some of the snow boots to be very worn out. And not so effective. In fact, my kids socks got wet inside the boots. And she started shivering saying “my feet are hurting”. I was really scared at that point. So, at least for kids I will highly recommend buying good quality boots and carrying with you. Rather than relying on the snow boots available for rental there. While we rented the equipment, our friend had these good quality snow boots. Which made life really comfortable for her.

But, at the same time, I will recommend carrying some extra shawl or blanket with you. And also renting couple of extra coats out. If you don’t wear them, you can use them as an extra cover for kids or simply use them as a blanket in the snow. Linking the stuff that we carried with us :

1. Heavy snow jacket for my husband, full sleeve mild winter T-shirt, thermal inner, muffler, cap and gloves
2. Heavy snow jacket for myself, my turtle neck (which is very warm), and my full sleeve mild winter T-shirt, thermal inner, cap and gloves
3. Jacket for my elder kid, sweater to layer inside jacket and thermal inner, socks and cap and gloves
4. Jacket for my younger, sweater to layer inside jacket and thermal inner, socks, cap and gloves
5. Shawl for extra cover

In fact we wore more than half our suitcase on this day 😀

Reach beforehand to make your waiting in the queue shorter

 

The Gondola operation starts at 8:30am, We reached the station at 8:30am. But still we spent close to 3 hours in queues before reaching the top of Phase 2. So, you can imagine what will happen if you reach later. In fact, we wanted to come even earlier. But our taxi arrived at 8. And we were staying at hotel pine view in Tangmarg. From there, it was half an hour drive to Gulmarg. If possible, book early and get an accommodation near the Gondola Station. And reach the Gondola station by 8:00am at least. That way, you might face less queue. Or else, plan your trip in off season. Some nice stay options at Gulmarg include

Pack your food from the hotel

There is literally no food option on the second phase of Gulmarg Gondola. And very limited options on the first phase. So, your best option is to carry ample supplies of food and warm water. You can carry sandwiches, boiled eggs, parathas, and fruits to avoid munching on junk snacks. Which are the only options available there. This is one big mistake we made. We were not adequately prepared with food options for our kids. And we assumed we will get something or the other there.

Other tips on visiting the Gulmarg Gondola and taking cable car ride

• Carry warm water, it will help keep you warm and hydrated from within. Keep sipping and also offering to kids.
• Book your gondola tickets online in advance. If the Goldola ride gets cancelled for some reason like bad weather, there is refund provision.
• Carry sunglasses and apply ample sunscreen lotion.
• To deal with mountain sickness which might hit you anytime, carry some gummies and medicines.
• If you don’t feel well, take it slow. Don’t force yourself. At the second phase of Gondola, we are at 14000 feet plus height. And for snow activities, you need to go higher. So, if you feel shortness of breathe or any discomfort, pay heed and return back immediately. I saw many elderly people at the second phase come rushing back to the station out of their breathe.
• Carry a jio sim. Airtel doesn’t work at Phase 1 and 2.
• Don’t keep kids exposed to the cold weather at phase 2 for too long. Also, due to lack of basic facilities, it is better to let the kids to enjoy at phase 1.

 

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More from our week long Kashmir trip:

How safe it is to visit Kashmir

All you need to know about a Shikara Ride in Dal Lake in Srinagar

Is it worth staying in a houseboat on Dal Lake

Exploring Asia’s largest Tulip Gardens in Kashmir

One day of sightseeing in Srinagar Kashmir